Zenthrus' Step by Step Painting Guide
Disclaimer: I do not go into great detail regarding brush care, mixing acrylic paints and palettes, complimentary/coincidental color theory, or drybrush/wash/glaze techniques. This guide is to illustrate how I achieve the look of the miniatures I paint using a wet brush layering technique. This technique is not for everyone as it is very time consuming, however, the results can be phenomenal. I also do not cover NMM techniques in great detail in this guide (the Displacer Beast has no metallic areas). Basic NMM techniques are identical to the layered wet brush techniques I use. Each of the techniques which I do not cover in detail in this guide already have great How-to guides at www.maxminis.com. www.coolminiornot.com, and other sites.
Displacer Beast
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NOTE: Tools of the trade. When painting miniatures there are a number of tools that you will need. First, you will need a selection of paints. I use Delta Dreamcoat paints but there are other brands available such as Reaper, Vallejo, Citadel, Games Workshop, etc. Second, you will need a selection of brushes. Three brushes are absolutely necessary: A flat brush (used for mixing), a #1 round brush, and a #000 (or 3/0) round brush. Optional brushes are #2 round, #0 round, #4/0 round, #8/0 round, and #10/0 spotters. I find I achieve my best results by using primarily #1 and #0 brushes for most of the job and #000 brushes for fine details. Small brushes tend to have a hard time accepting paint. Third you will need liquid superglue. Any brand will do. Last you will need a container for holding water and a palette (or mixing dish). Other tools that can make your life easier are a pin vise (a small hand drill), paperclips (for creating pins), two-part epoxy (also known as Green Stuff for filling large cracks), white school glue (for filling tiny cracks and seams), pliers, a sturdy craft knife (I recommend an X-acto knife), and a cup or stand for holding brushes while not in use. Brushes should be stored with the bristles upright. For basing you will likely need craft sand, lichen (moss available in most craft stores), small rocks (available in most craft stores and around your garden) and anything else you might want to experiment with (cotton batting for clouds, seashells, tiny glass gems, etc.)
Step One: Assembly and cleanup. The Displacer Beast comes in four pieces: base, main body, left forelegs, left back leg. The assembly procedure is relatively simple but requires a few special steps not immediately obvious to novice painters. The best way to begin is to take the main body and remove the flashing. Flashing is excess metal left over from the casting process. I use a craft knife with #0 blades. Carefully carve away the excess flashing and then look to the mould lines. Mould lines are slight ridges that occur where the two-part casting mould comes together. The ridges can easily be removed with either a craft knife (use extra caution) or files (available from craft stores). Remember: when using a craft knife always cut away from yourself. When you feel that your mini is sufficiently cleaned up (flashing and mould lines removed) you then attach the left forelegs and left back leg to the main body with a drop or two of super glue. Remember: when working with super glue be careful to not inhale the fumes as they're toxic. Also remember to avoid getting the glue on your skin as it bonds permanently. Super glue develops its strongest bonds when a minimal amount is used (use too much and it doesn't really bond the surfaces together). Most of the time there will be small gaps left in between two pieces you have glued together. I use small drops of white school glue to fill in any gaps and use a dedicated brush to spread the glue until it's smooth. Finally, cut out a slot in the base that is slightly smaller than the metal tab on the mini. The snugger the fit the better. If there are any gaps (light showing through) after you glue the mini into the base slot use two-part epoxy to fill the gaps. Ultimately you should have a mini that looks relatively smooth and free of major blemishes.
Alternately you can modify the mini. In the case of the displacer beast the tentacles come molded together and the tail is molded to the body. With very careful knife work I separated the tentacles and separated the tail from the body. This creates a need to smooth over the areas you cut. After cutting and filing I brush on a thin layer of white school glue to help smooth the surface for painting. Your net result should look something like the above picture on the right.